"Marta and Arturo treated us like family. I'm not exaggerating. We've hosted many friends and family visiting us overseas. Taking her cooking class felt like the mirror image. We would - will - recommend this adventure to anyone coming to Mexico City.
Marta welcomed us in her home in a quiet neighborhood outside the center of Mexico City. A pudgy, golden bundle of love named Layla greeted us at the entrance of her apartment. We'd seen hundreds of dogs and their owners during the week; it was only fitting another was there to welcome us. Marta and her husband took my family to the market, where she engaged sellers in friendly conversation and explained about unique flavors and preparations of pre-Hispanic cuisine.
Back at the apartment, Marta took my wife, daughter, and me through the history and art of pre-Hispanic cooking. She drafted my daughter into shredding Oaxaca cheese and preparing tortillas, while showing us some secrets to incredible food. She walked through the importance of the epazote herb, the versatility and unique flavor of huitlacotche (corn fungus, try it), and interactions of chili, oil, lard, avocados, and more. We gnawed on jicama and spiced broad beans while we cooked.
After preparing the meal, we sat down to eat together. A premade blue corn sope almost stole the show till the next dish arrived, our tortilla soup topped with chicharron and chapulines (crickets, again, try it!). Then came the quesadillas stuffed with a blend of Oaxaca cheese, huitlacotche, and onions. Finally - ok this was the real winner - she brought out a nutty flan dripping with caramel. Costarring with the flan was mamey, a native fruit halfway between a papaya and an avocado.
I can't say enough about this experience. Yes, the food was fantastic, but the company was better. Marta and Arturo really treated us like family, showing off family photos and talking about their careers spanning the globe.
Outside, the city observed Good Friday - a day when Christians recall the Last Supper and later crucifixion of Jesus. A small procession walked by as we returned from the market. Dedicated to mothers of the disappeared, it not only commemorating the holiday, but providing a somber reminder of Mexico's past and present. As we broke bread with Marta and Arturo, we thought of what made up Mexico's identity - through sacrifice, pain, joy, and optimism. As Americans breaking bread with a couple who had devotes their lives to their country, we thought of what kindness we owed them, ourselves, and each other."
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